Bridging Cultures in Herzegovina

View from Stari Most

Whenever I am planning a trip I always want to go somewhere that I have never been. It almost feels like a waste to go back to a place you have already explored. Something can be said for yearly family vacations with the same people in the same places. That is how traditions are created, but I also don't want to give up the few opportunities I have to go someplace new. I suppose it is a balance. There is always something nice about revisiting your favorite places in the world. Most likely on your first trip you did all of the things you're supposed to do but now you are free to seek out the things tourists rarely do. That was the case for me when I revisited Mostar, a small city in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

On my first trip to the region I was an inexperienced traveler. I was paranoid when the border patrol agents got on the bus after crossing from Croatia into Herzegovina took my passport and even more paranoid when they got back on and returned everyone's passport except mine. There we are sitting on the bus and I'm looking around. Clearly everyone knew that we were waiting because of me. My only previous border crossing experience up to that point was going from the United States to Canada. To stay that those two experiences were vastly different would be the understatement of the millennium. No one got on my bus with a machine gun going to Niagara Falls. Eventually I got my passport back and we were on our way to Mostar.

Cemetery in Mostar

The focal point of Mostar is the Old Bridge (Stari Most). Most means bridge, so obviously just by looking at the name you can infer that the bridge has played an important role in the history of Mostar. The Old Bridge divides two parts of town, one part is typically Bosnian Muslims and the other Croatian Catholics. The original bridge was destroyed during a war in the region in 1993.  It was eventually rebuilt and served as a symbol for the region during reconstruction. Many of the tourist regions around the bridge have been rebuilt or restored since the war but if you go even slightly out of that area there are lasting reminders everywhere you turn. Shells of buildings that are barely still standing line streets and cemeteries filled with graves marked 1993. As a high school graduate in 1993 it was a sobering experience to look out among those graves and think about the differences between our lives. While I was preparing for college, out boozing with my fake i.d. and skipping classes, these young people were  defending their families, struggling to find food and hiding their younger siblings in basements. Regardless of your ethnic, political or religious beliefs, in the end we are people with families. As we have all experienced at some point in our lives, losing a loved one is never easy.

Muslibegovic House

There is a dichotomy as you spend time in Mostar. There is a sadness but then there is also this excitement as well. Young men jump from the bridge to entertain the tourists. Streets were closed down, filled with chairs and televisions to watch the World Cup soccer tournament. I meet people on both sides of the bridge who were proud of their cultures. I spent time at the Muslibegovic House, a national monument in Bosnia and Herzegovina. My room was beautiful and the courtyard with pillow top benches were perfect for a few quiet hours of reading. The hosts provided incredible meals and were so gracious and hospitable. I received the same graciousness and hospitality with a Croatian family in a Siroki Brijeg, small town outside of Mostar. They took me in and treated me like I was a part of their family. We laughed over language differences, especially when the father said, "I love you" instead of "How are you?" Overall, my experiences with the people were very positive but in both cases things were said that made it clear all is not well in the region among the people. Small comments like, "Why would you stay there?" or "Why are going over there?" I know tensions in the region are still simmering and some people are working hard to repair both the physical and emotional damage.

Bridge Jumper

Travel to regions with ethnic, religious or political tensions can be difficult and at times scary. There were times when I felt uneasy, but that feeling always subsided when I spent more than 5 minutes talking with the people. It is easy to focus on the history and the politics of the region. War leaves deep scars. Those scars are often more visible than the signs of reconciliation. A friend warned me for my safety to not talk about politics with people and if someone tried to change the subject. Religion and politics can be difficult discussions amongst the closest friends let alone with strangers and your own language barrier. I had read a lot of historical information before I went and I was interested in listening to the people talk about what it was like and where they see things going. I engaged in some of those conversations on small scales but my friends cautious words were in the back of my mind. Warnings like that can deter some people from visiting. It is like the men jumping off the Old Bridge, it can be scary but sometimes it is worth the risk. One of my most precious travel memories is sitting along the river at the bottom of that bridge at sunset and crying. It was during my first trip and I was overwhelmed by the history, the uncertain future and the fact that I never dreamed I would be here. American kids often dream of going places like Paris or Rome, but it would be hard to find one who dreams of Stari Most. That is a shame. The Old Bridge might not be as romantic as the Eiffel Tower but you would be hard pressed to find a place in the world that is more symbolic of a people's past and their hope for a better future. 

Ketchup or Mustard?

Get this look here!

This season it's all about the deep, yellow mustard-y tones to really add a pop of color to any fall wardrobe. There are several variations of this color (more gold-toned, more yellow based) offering you tons of ways to integrate this tone...but just be careful not to overdo it. I find it best to simply add a little touch of this gorgeous color to your outfit, in whichever form you choose. Whether it's a loose fitting tank or chiffon blouse with your favorite pair of black skinnys, a pair of pumps or flats, or a structured handbag or clutch, be sure to add this fresh fall color to your closet!

Jonaha
$110
Aldo

Bologna XIV
$59
Bakers

It's Always Sunny In...

Independence Hall

Every year my four best girlfriends from law school and I plan a "conference." It is our version of a girls weekend. When we first started the weekends consisted of getting drunk and eating. A few years ago we added an educational component in an effort to appear like we have grown up and our conference isn't just us reliving spring breaks from our 20's. We were all living in the northeast at the time and decided on a trip to Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Commonly known as "The City of Brotherly Love", we, as native New Yorkers, adopted a conference slogan of "Brotherly Love, My Ass." New York and Philadelphia have a love hate relationship, much like New York and Boston. Obviously, this a result of inferiority complexes of both those cities when compared to the greatest city in the world. Every New Yorker reading that sentence just nodded their head in agreement and everyone else in the world shook their head, rolled their eyes and mumbled "cocky New York mother fuckers."

A Founding Father

As a group of former law students, we were extremely excited about the historical and political sites that only Philly can offer. We stood outside the glass of the Liberty Bell and stood in front of Independence Hall with wide eyes. We recited excerpts from the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution as we walked across the street to the Constitution Center. This was the opportunity to take our pocket constitutions to their Mecca. We spent hours wandering around the center, giving fake presidential press conferences, arguing about 1st Amendment cases, and posing inappropriately with founding father statues. Now that we had satisfied our educational component of the conference we got back to our roots of eating, drinking and general tomfoolery.

Me & Ben Franklin

We enjoyed taking pictures with the game board pieces in downtown. We climbed in the Monopoly wheelbarrow, posed with a bright yellow Sorry piece and Bingo chips. We ran up the steps of the art museum and randomly yelled, "Yo, Adrienne" in our most obnoxious Rocky voices all around the city. We bought food at the Italian Market and ate the most phenomenal brunch of our lives at Honey's. The atmosphere there would have made the worst meal still feel worth the trip so when the food came and we were all blown away it was like the heavens had opened up just for us. We spent three days eating, drinking, nerding and laughing our way through  Philadelphia. We took snide pictures in front of the LOVE statue, hugged the men and women giving our free hugs in downtown, and sang Will Smith's Fresh Prince's theme song over and over again without ever getting tired. We gave disgusted looks to every person we saw in Philadelphia Eagles attire one second and then giggled like school girls at the thought of Thomas Jefferson wandering the streets in the late 1700's. We could have stayed in Philadelphia for months and still never have been able to see all of the sites worthy of a visit, but as Philadelphia's favorite son, Ben Franklin, once said, "Guests, like fish, begin to smell after three days."

Hottest Hues for Fall

Move over bubblegum pinks and bright summery neons, the nail trends this fall are bold and edgy. But as the blazing heat of summer is fading, don't think your nails have to be dull and somber. The nail trends this season are full of fall fun and are sure to catch your eye!



1. Shades of Blue

Blue is the new go-to fall nail color. From blue's with a greenish undertone, a striking royal blue polish 
or a deep navy...they're all in!

Sephora by OPI
Teal We Meet Again 

Sephora Collection
My Favorite Jea

Yves Saint Laurent
Blue Cobalt

2. (Not your average) Red

Dior
Massai Red

NARS
Blood Red

There's always a red nail trend for any season. But instead of a flashy cherry red, this season try on a more sophisticated, deep red....burgandy if you will.

3. Metallics

Sephora by OPI
Charge It!

Sephora by OPI
S-age Is Just A Number

No need for jewelry with a polish like this! From golds and silvers to colored metallics, what's not to love!?

4. Copper

Copper colored nails are the new shade of fall. Much like the metallics, this striking color will be sure to grab your attention.

Butter London
The Old Bill

Sephora by OPI
Traffic Stopper Copper

4. Deep Purple
A staple in my fall nail colors, this hue is a softer alternative to a black polish, while still giving you the richness and edginess that a straight black polish would.

Sephora by OPI
Caffine Fix

Dior
Purple Revolution

5. Nearly nude

Dior
Safari Beige

Not up for the darker hues? Try a barely-there nude color to keep your hands looking clean and fresh.

Illamasqua
Monogamous

*Note: All of these nail polishes can be found on Sephora!

Sarajevo Roses

Sarajevo

In the summer of 2010 I was awarded a Fund For Teachers grant that gave me $5,000 to travel and study a topic of my choice. Being a history teacher, I have an interest in global conflicts. I decided to travel to some of the former republics of Yugoslavia (Croatia, Bosnia & Herzegovina, Serbia and Slovenia). During the 1990's the region was in the midst of a violent civil war. I wanted to travel to the region and see how it has recovered. One of the hardest hit areas was the city of Sarajevo in Bosnia. Sarajevo was known as the melting pot of the region prior to the war. It was a place where Croatian Catholics, Serbian Orthodox and Bosnian Muslims lived in peace together.

A Sarajevo Rose

The scars of the war in Sarajevo are still visible. Throughout the city you will find splashes of red paint in the middle of roads or sidewalks. They are called Sarajevo roses. During the war mortar shells would crash into the ground and create these dents. People began to fill in the dents with red paint as a reminder of those who lost their lives. As the city rebuilds and replaces roads and sidewalks, the roses are disappearing but you can still find them throughout the city.  There are other reminders of war including burnt out buildings, bullet holes and memorials all around the city that remind us of all of the lives that were lost.

Tunnel Museum

The purpose of the Fund for Teachers grants is to help teacher learn new things and be able to bring those back to his or her classroom. My plan was to use what I learned to create a unit on conflict. I spent a lot of my time talking with people about the war days and the recovery. Every person I spoke with recommended that I visit the Tunnel Museum just outside of the city near the airport. During the war the Serbian forces had blocked supplies from getting into the city and it became very difficult for people to get the basic necessities of life. A secret tunnel was dug to help smuggle supplies into the city. A portion of that tunnel is still intact and has become a small museum. A trip there includes information about the digging of the tunnel, the supplies that would come through it and the influence of the tunnel on the lives of people in Sarajevo. It is an emotional experience to walk through that tunnel. I left with an enormous amount of respect for those who sacrificed so much to help their neighbors.

Sarajevo Film Festival Poster 

I left Sarajevo with a better understanding of the impact of the war on the people. There were plenty of moments that left me in tears but as I left the city on the train I couldn't help but be in awe of their ability to deal with horrific acts that seem unrecoverable. The surprise for me was that Sarajevo is still a vibrant city with an abundance of art and culture to experience. Unfortunately, I did not have a lot of time to explore much beyond my focus on the war and the recovery.  I would love to go back there someday and just enjoy Sarajevo for what it is today, a small European city on the verge of being something great, again. 

Hotel Review: Crowne Plaza Lake Placid

The Great Room of the Crowne Plaza

I don't write many hotels reviews but after this weekend I thought I would share my thoughts on the Crowne Plaza hotel in Lake Placid, New York. I just returned from a wedding over Labor Day weekend and stayed at the Crowne Plaza. The Crowne Plaza isn't cheap. If you're looking for a $50 a night hotel, this is not your place. If the $400 a night Mirror Lake Inn rooms are too pricey for your budget, the Crowne Plaza is a nice alternative. Depending on the time of year and dates of your visit the prices can differ. This weekend I paid $129 for a Thursday night and $189 a night for the holiday weekend. My room had a nice king size bed with a patio that provided an incredible view of the sunset over the mountains. The view of the lake and mountains from the Great Room off the lobby is one of the finest views I have ever seen from a hotel.

Sunset View from my room

While the scene and the room are both splendid at the Crowne Plaza the atmosphere was just as impressive. The mother of the bride had booked the Grandview Cottage, a 3 bedroom cottage on the grounds of the hotel that served as Bridal Headquarters for the weekend. A constant flow of people came in when they arrived or came over for breakfast in Jameson induced hazes to piece the evening together. The hotel bar located in the Great Room provided those spectacular views but also reasonable drinks and classic pub food. After the rehearsal dinner we spent several hour throwing back the drinks, laughing and being a pretty rowdy crowd but the bartenders never flinched. When we finally left the bar area I cashed out my tab and started to walk towards the lobby when the bartender yelled, "Slater! Take these waters" and sent us on our way with 3 bottles of complimentary water. What more can a wedding guest ask for...a great view, a comfy bed and bartenders who call you by name. 

Giddy up!

Put your best foot forward  in a pair of western inspired boots! These boots are an absolute MUST have this fall! Simply pull a pair on and you've got a quick and easy fashion statement as you're headed out the door! However, unless you're really into the whole western look, be cautious with what you pair your boots with. On those warmer fall days pair with cutoff jean shorts and a chiffon blouse or a flowy, long sleeve dress. As the temperature drops try wearing with shiny leggings and a chunky sweater. This will help to tone down the cowgirl look of the boot without overdoing it, while still offering you a little western flair to your look!

Skater Dress
$68.12
Asos

Neutral Pattern Ankle Boot
$122.00
WallisFashion

Free People Songbird Pullover Sweater
$98.00
Karmaloop

Shiny Nylon Leggings
$34.00
American Apparel

Steve Madden Tolteca Boot
$179.00
Zappos